The first reason is the onion secretive trunk. These pests overwinter in the soil or in onions, which for some reason have not been removed. Adult beetles eat through the onion feathers, it begins to dry, and white spots appear around the holes formed. The larvae of the pest eat out longitudinal paths inside the feathers, resembling white stripes. Then the tips of the feathers begin to turn yellow, the feathers curl and dry out. To prevent onions, you need to constantly and carefully loosen the bed, while adding mustard powder, ground black or red pepper, wood ash. The remaining onions should be disposed of. Do not forget about crop rotation - the onion ridge must be transferred annually to another place, preferably away from the previous one. Yellowed feathers must be cut off, leaving 4 centimeters.
The second reason why the onion turns yellow is the onion fly. Onions infected with the larvae of this pest turn yellow early and. Not only the feather, but also the bulbs suffer from the onion fly. They begin to rot, easily pulled out of the soil. So that the onion does not turn yellow due to the onion fly, you need to dig a bed deep, sow it as early as possible, and remove already infected plants in time. For onions, carrots will be a good neighbor. These cultures will help each other to repel pests with their smells. Folk remedies for the fight against yellowing of the onion feather are shag or tobacco dust, ash. They are sprinkled with onion beds. In addition, every three weeks you can water the onion with salt water (200 grams of salt per bucket of water). Watering should be carried out carefully, strictly under the bulb. The first time you can use salt water when the feather has grown to 5 centimeters. After harvesting, the bed should be thoroughly cleaned of onion residues.
The third reason is nitrogen deficiency. After prolonged precipitation, along with rainwater, nitrogen compounds go deep into the soil and become inaccessible to onion roots. To prevent the onion from turning yellow, in this case it is necessary to fertilize with nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, saltpeter) or manure infusion.
So that the onion does not turn yellow, you need to organize proper watering. From a large number moisture, the onion begins to rot, so you need to water the bed with onions rarely, but plentifully.
Onion like everyone else vegetable crops unfortunately prone to disease. These are bacterial rot, rust, bottom rot. These fungal diseases are accompanied by yellowing and subsequent death of the plant. So that the onion does not turn yellow as a result of diseases, only absolutely healthy seed should be used, which is recommended to be heated for 10 hours at a temperature of 40 ° C before planting. Pre-treat the soil with Hom (40 grams per bucket of water).
At the end of July, the onion ripens and naturally the onion feather turns yellow. At this time, it does not need to be watered. The harvested crop should be sorted, dried and properly stored.
Non-compliance with agricultural practices and ignoring preventive measures becomes the main reason why onions may turn yellow. There is either complete or partial yellowing of the leaves. At the same time, they look lethargic, weakened. The situation may threaten a complete loss of the onion crop.
A common reason why onions turn yellow is a lack of nitrogen in the soil. Its deficiency usually develops when the soil is depleted or in hot weather. Onion roots receive nitrogen only in dissolved form, and in dry weather it ceases to flow to plants. On the contrary, excessive soil moisture or frequent rains can lead to leaching nutrients from the soil.
With a lack of nitrogen in the soil, the plant slows down its growth, the feathers become short and thick. At first, the color of the lower leaves becomes pale green, and then the young feathers turn completely yellow. Lack of nitrogen can also lead to bottom rot.
In order to prevent a lack of nutrients in the soil, it is necessary to carry out top dressing in a timely manner. A solution based on urea or ammonium nitrate and manure infusion is well suited. The components must be dissolved in water so as not to burn the roots. The procedure can be repeated after 5-6 days.
Onions often turn yellow as a result of pest attacks. They not only suck the juices from the plant and gnaw on greens and roots, but also carry various infectious diseases.
The onion moth is a small butterfly (body length about 8 mm) of a dark brown color with light gray wings. In late spring, females begin to lay their eggs at night on the soil near the bulbs or between the leaves. After 7–8 days, yellow-green caterpillars appear from the eggs, the length of which is 1 cm.
Great damage from insects is observed, especially in dry, hot weather. The leaves begin to turn yellow and dry from the tips, light spots may appear.
What to do if the onion turned yellow in the beds due to the activity of the onion moth? The effect of drugs such as Spark, Summer Resident, Metaphos is effective. Treating the land with wood ash and tobacco dust helps to scare away pests. Seeds should be sown as early as possible. It is recommended to remove all plant debris from the site in the fall and dig up the ground even before the onset of frost.
onion thrips
Onion thrips is a small yellowish insect, its length is about 1 mm. It sucks the juices from the plant, as a result, the onion feathers turn yellow and dry. The female lays eggs in the leaves, from which grey-yellow-green larvae appear after 5–6 days.
Thrips, like onion moths, overwinter in the soil, burrowing into the remains of vegetation or in bulbs that are intended for sowing. Therefore, a preventive measure is the autumn digging of the site with the application of fertilizers and the cleansing of the remaining tops. Sevok before planting must be disinfected by placing, for example, in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or lowered into hot water(water temperature about 45 degrees) for 10 minutes. If a pest is found in the garden, they are treated with insecticides (Spark, Konfidor).
Onion fly and how to destroy it
The most common onion pest is the onion fly, which infects any of its varieties. It resembles an ordinary fly, the body length reaches 8 mm, the color is gray-yellow.
In mid-May, when dandelion and lilac begin to bloom, the female of this insect begins to lay eggs in the soil near onion beds, less often between young leaves or between dry scales of the bulb. After 6 days, the larvae that emerged from the eggs begin to eat the bulb from the side of the bottom. Feathers begin to become covered with yellow spots, and soon the whole plant dies.
The larvae develop within three weeks. They then burrow into the ground and pupate. After some time, new individuals appear, approximately at the end of July.
- early planting of onions;
- it is recommended to plant carrots in the neighborhood;
- during the summer, the flies of the beds are treated with a mixture of wood ash, tobacco dust and ground pepper;
- the drug Bazudin, which is mixed with sand and added to the soil, helps to scare away insects.
If the larvae have already begun their destructive activity, treatment with Creocid, Muhoed, Aktara, Karate Zeon will help. It is effective to treat the onion with a saline solution with a few drops of ammonia (200 g of salt must be dissolved in 10 liters of water).
stem nematode
The stem nematode, like the onion fly, leads to yellowing of the leaves and loss of yield. The nematode resembles a small worm (1.5 mm long) that penetrates the bottom of an onion. Insects feed on plant sap. The bulb starts to rot. White dots and stripes appear on the feathers, then the onion leaves turn yellow, curl and dry.
It is difficult to fight the nematode, so the only thing that can be done is to follow some rules:
- treat planting material with saline or hot water;
- it is recommended to plant onions in the same area no earlier than after 4 years;
- marigolds can be planted between the rows, an infusion of these flowers also helps;
- timely weeding should be carried out.
If the onion in the garden turned yellow due to pests remaining in the soil, then the aisles can be watered with a solution based on Fitoverm or Akarina powder. The drugs are toxic, so it is not recommended to treat them too often.
Weevil secretive trunk and the fight against it
A small beetle, the secretive proboscis, feeds on green onion leaves. Its body is gray and oval in shape. In the spring, they begin to eat young shoots. After laying eggs, after 2 weeks, beetle larvae appear, which begin to eat greens. The larvae are yellowish in color with a brown head, about 6 mm long. First, white spots appear on the leaves, and then the onion feather in the garden turns yellow and dries.
Preventive measures are:
- digging the soil in the fall after harvest;
- cleaning the site from plant residues and weeds in the fall;
- it is recommended to plant onions annually in a new place.
If this insect appears on the beds, it is necessary to loosen the row spacing with the addition of tobacco dust, wood ash or ground pepper. If there are not too many pests, then you can collect them manually. It helps to destroy pests by spraying with a solution based on the drug Karbofos.
What's wrong with onions?
Onions turn yellow not only because of the invasion of insect pests. Very often, fungal, bacterial and viral infections can spoil the crop.
Rust
Rust is a fungal disease of onions. It affects green leaves, as a result, nutrients in insufficient quantities penetrate to the bulb, and the yield is reduced.
First, yellow-brown stripes or spots appear on the leaves, which grow over time. The disease leads to complete yellowing and drying of the green part of the onion.
Preventive measures mainly relate to planting material that needs to be heated and disinfected. If a problem is found, onion beds are sprayed with a solution based on copper oxychloride. The component is diluted in a bucket of water and 30 ml of liquid soap is added. You can use the drug Hom or Metronidazole.
Bulb rot caused by bacteria
Bulb rot can only be seen on the harvested crop. Affected heads soften and dark streaks can be found between the scales. Such bulbs are not subject to storage. This onion disease is carried by insects.
Only healthy, dense bulbs are selected for planting. The soil is treated with Hom or Metronidazole. If you plant an affected set, then the plant grows weak. Young leaves immediately turn yellow and dry.
Fusarium, bottom rot
All varieties of onions can suffer from such a fungal disease as fusarium. First, the onion feathers turn yellow, curl, and then completely dry out and the plant dies. On the bottom and in the axils of the leaves you can see a white or light pink bloom.
The following actions can be taken to prevent damage to the bottom rot:
- the site for planting onions should be on a hill and well lit;
- you should not plant onions for several years in a row on the same site; cereals are considered the best predecessors;
- you need to plant a vegetable and harvest on time;
- seeds before planting are selected and disinfected.
When the first signs of the disease appear, treatment with Fitosporin, Quadris will help.
Alternariosis
Alternariosis is another fungal disease that affects onions. Green feathers are affected first. White spots form on them, which turn brown over time. Gradually, the disease passes to the bulb, it becomes covered with black mold and rots.
Such preparations as Acrobat, Cabrio Duo, Poliram, Fitosporin will help save the bow from yellowing of the feather. In autumn, after harvesting, all tops and husks are removed from the garden.
Failure to follow the rules for caring for onions leads to yellowing of the feather
If you take care of vegetable plantings incorrectly, they become weak, lethargic and the leaves change color. Watering and top dressing should be carried out in a timely manner and in certain quantities.
Insufficient or incorrect watering
With proper watering, the onion head is formed dense, juicy and stored for a long time. In the early days, when the onion is just taking root, you need to water it abundantly every three days. Then watering is reduced to once a week. In July, when the head is forming, it is enough to water once every 1.5 weeks.
Water for irrigation should be warm (about 20 degrees) and it is better to pour it under the root. best time for watering is considered early morning or evening hours. If the weather is cloudy, then it is possible at lunchtime.
Onions love moist soil, but excess moisture can lead to stunted growth due to leaching of micronutrients, rotting and the spread of infections. In addition, the onion head is formed small and tasteless.
Another reason why, under normal plant care conditions, the leaves turn yellow, weather conditions become. The return of frosts, droughts or heavy rains can affect the quality and quantity of the crop.
Feeding shortage
During watering, it is recommended to carry out top dressing. The first fertilization is carried out two weeks after planting. You can make a solution of ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and potassium salt. The next top dressing is carried out in another two weeks.
What to do?
There are many ways to do if the onion turns yellow, dries and dies. The main thing is to recognize the cause in time.
Folk remedies for yellowing pen
If pests have become the cause of the yellowing of the onion, then they will help folk remedies:
- In 10 liters of water, dissolve one ampoule of ammonia, 200 g of common table salt and 200 g of wood ash. It is recommended to water the beds with the resulting solution after 10 days, until the leaves turn green again.
- In a bucket of water, dissolve 1 kg of soda, 10 ml of iodine and 4 sachets of potassium permanganate. The finished concentrate is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1 and the beds are watered. The solution is enough for large area landings.
- Plant infusions are prepared from dandelions, wormwood, calendula, hot peppers.
As a preventive measure, you can sprinkle the aisles with salt water or sprinkle with a dry mixture of tobacco dust, wood ash and ground pepper.
Plant protection chemicals
In the event of a mass attack of pests, due to which the onion turned yellow, spraying with chemicals is carried out. Among the popular and effective: Mostilan, Iskra, Aktara, Karbofos, Leptocide, Creocide.
So that the onion does not turn yellow, you can prevent a lack of nitrogen in the soil by applying urea or ammonium nitrate. Grooves are dug between rows of onions and 6 grams of ammonium nitrate per 1 sq. m.
How to water the beds in order to effectively combat the yellowing of the leaves? Most vegetable growers use salted water. A mixture of wood ash and carrot seed powder gives a good effect. You can treat the beds with wood ash or chamomile pollination. If the onion turns yellow, then you can feed it with complex fertilizer.
If you are reading this note, then you now have the same problem as I had just recently - the tips of the onion are drying. They dry without any superficial signs of disease, and this process progresses very quickly. If so, then to the question of what to do if the tips of the onion dry, I can say one thing - relax. It will no longer be possible to cure the bow, all that you could have already done was launch it. Sorry for the black humor, but I can’t describe the situation in any other way.
I already wrote in a water note about a similar situation, when the tips of the pen first turn yellow in winter, and then dry up. Comparing winter and spring onion cultivation is tantamount to a crime. In the spring, this misfortune occurs differently. The tips of the onions do not turn yellow at all, they just dry out. Click on the photo below and see how it goes. For no apparent reason, an absolutely healthy, green feather folds as if it was “strangled”, that is, in one narrow isthmus it withers and falls, and then the tip of the green onion begins to dry. As a rule, the onion feather dries from above after 5-7 centimeters.
As I wrote above, it will no longer be possible to cure the feather, the process of dying off green onion tissues has already been started. Your right to treat my words with distrust and take measures to restore the situation, if you succeed, in some magical way known only to you, write a “recipe” in the comments, thereby you will help many onions. I haven't found a solution yet. But I found several reasons why the tips of the pen dry. It remains only to prevent this unpleasant and financially and physically unprofitable process.
The first reason is when, in an evil state of mind, I removed the “sad” onion from the beds and took it to the compost, I came across the whole world fauna. I counted three kinds of inhabitants. 1- maggot about a centimeter long, most likely an onion fly; 2- small, half a millimeter red mites; 3 - narrow, black with a red spot on the back and about 6 millimeters long, fast moving insects, most likely thrips. I have never personally met the latter, so I could be wrong. Then who is this if not thrips?
This can be prevented by soaking the onion in water from +40 to +50 degrees before planting. I checked it personally, I threw these caught individuals into the input, they die instantly, which means that the planting material will be healthy during planting, and not infected. After that, throughout the entire forcing process, you need to track rotten bulbs, they can be seen immediately, dry, crooked, thin feathers grow from them or do not grow at all. These bulbs must be removed immediately. Watering with the addition of potassium permanganate once per distillation is required. Checked personally, after these manipulations there is no chance of getting sick onions.
The second reason is watering. In winter, you have to water once a week, sometimes twice, in the spring almost every day. I neglected this information and missed watering for only four days :-), and what happened. The ends of a feather 35 cm long began to dry, I pulled out the bulb and saw that the substrate was completely dry and with good feather growth, the bulb had almost no roots and they Brown color- stiffened, from lack of moisture. The fastest onion stood for three days completely dry. I stuck this onion back and watered the whole garden abundantly, two days later I looked again that with roots, from brown hard roots, thin roots began to grow in a bunch like a washcloth, but the onion still could not be revived. The solution to this problem is the most elementary, you should not rely on the statistics and the irrigation formula, you just need to “poke” your finger into the substrate more often, up to doing it twice a day. Believe me, it's easier than taking your money and labor to the compost heap.
That's how I found out when the tips of the onion dry, this is a combination of two factors.
Conclusion: 1- disinfect planting material before planting; 2- constantly remove rotten bulbs from the garden; 3- water, water, water, in no case do not yawn this moment, the roots should always be long, white and wet.
I hope my experience will help you in solving the problem.
If someone has a different drying process, describe in the comments so that other onion growers can deal with it.
It is impossible to imagine the hostess' kitchen without onions. Let tears flow from him like a river, a new vegetable is necessary for many dishes. Therefore, in private plots, onions are grown everywhere. It is planted either for the winter or in the spring. Onions are growing well. Rarely enough is capricious and shows discontent. But it signals serious problems. Often - yellowing of the pen.
What to do if the onion turns yellow?
Everything depends on the season. If the onion began to turn yellow in June, for example, then this is bad. The plant is not happy. Or someone wound up in the garden. You need to figure out why the onion feather turns yellow, and take action. If this happens at the end of July, then there is no reason for concern. The harvest has begun to ripen. We'll clean up soon.
Provocateurs of yellowness:
Why do onion leaves turn yellow?
Causes of the problem: a pest has wound up, there is not enough nitrogen in the soil, the plant lacks moisture. Rescue measures will depend on the specific cause.
Pests:
As a rule, the plant is damaged by a fly and a secretive proboscis.
Onion fly.
Symptoms of its presence: feathers turn yellow and wither early, a larva can be found in the bulb, the vegetable rots, and the plant is pulled out of the ground very easily, even accidentally during weeding.
Pest targeting:
1. The size adult- about seven millimeters. The body is yellowish-gray with dark sparse stripes.
2. The larva is a white worm with cone-like processes at the end. It can be seen in the bulb or in the soil near the plant.
The pupae of flies hibernate in the soil. In spring, the pupae wake up. Egg laying coincides with the flowering of dandelions. A week later, the larvae appear. They sneak into the bulb and feed on it.
Protective measures:
Onion Stalker
A very dangerous pest that eats feathers from the inside. Signs of its invasion: on the leaves - white spots and longitudinal stripes, yellow tips of feathers, twisting and drying of the feather. For young plantings, both adults and larvae are dangerous.
How to recognize a pest?
1. The adult beetle is a small insect up to two millimeters long. The body is covered with light scales. The tarsi and elytra are brownish. There is a light stripe at the base of the elytra.
2. The larva is a light worm with a dark head.
Hidden trunks hibernate in the ground, grass, shrubs or unharvested onions. They feed on them in the spring, gradually moving to fresh plantings. The female gnaws the onion feather and lays eggs there. After two weeks, the larvae emerge. They eat the internal contents of the feathers, and then descend into the soil to pupate.
Protective measures:
Lack of nitrogen in the soil
It can be observed both on dry days and on rainy days. Nitrogen is absorbed in dissolved form, so moisture is needed. At the same time, after heavy rainfall, nitrogenous compounds go too deep, from where the roots of the plant cannot absorb them.
To compensate for the deficiency of nitrogen, onions are periodically fertilized with saltpeter, ammonium sulfate, urea or slurry.
lack of moisture
During the period of active growth and gaining strength, onions need regular watering.
Feather Rescue:
Consider a few folk methods comprehensive problem solving. That is, such recipes that allow you to immediately eliminate several causes.
1. In ten liters of warm water, dissolve half a glass of table salt and one ampoule of ammonia. Add three zhmenki ash. Water this composition once every ten days. Until the feathers turn green again.
2. planting material soak in strong potassium permanganate and land in rows sprinkled with salt.
3. For half a bucket of water - half a tablespoon of iodine, two bags of potassium permanganate and five hundred grams of soda. This is a concentrated formula. It must also be diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10. And already divorced to water.
4. Sprinkle the aisles with sand mixed with naphthalene.
5. Water the onion with salt water with potassium permanganate.
Good afternoon, dear readers!
Whoever has at least a small courtyard has a small garden bed with onions. What can we say, if there is a lot of land, then more space is allotted to him. Unfortunately, onions often get sick and turn yellow right in the garden - what to do in this case? And this is one of the headaches of any summer resident.
If he changed his color in mid-late August, then it's okay - at this time he is almost ready for harvesting. And if the feathers or tips of the onion turn yellow in the midst of its growth and formation in June-early July, then urgent measures must be taken.
First, you need to understand the causes of onion yellowing. They may be different:
A common cause of yellowing onion feathers is a lack of nitrogen in the soil. Onions are especially hungry in hot weather, since nitrogen is absorbed only in dissolved form. And also, in the rainy season, there is a lack of nitrogen. Water washes everything beneficial features from the upper layers of the soil, which are so necessary for growth in the first half of summer.
onion fly- similar to the usual. Its larvae do more harm. When they hatch, they penetrate the bulbs and eat them from the inside. The leaves turn yellow and dry, and the bulb itself rots. To check, you need to click on the bulb. When damaged, it becomes soft. Or pull the bulb out of the garden and carefully examine the roots - they may have small white worms on them.
Secretive trunk, otherwise weevil- a small beetle, has a black or dark gray color. It eats the pulp of the leaves, on which white stripes or dots then appear. Affected leaves dry up. Unlike other pests, it does not harm the bulb itself, only the green leaves.
Fusarium fungus infects the bulb, which later produces diseased plants. A mycelium appears, gradually penetrating the leaves. They turn yellow, break, become lethargic.
Alternariosis- develops on leaves affected by gray rot. Watery spots appear that turn brownish. The spot enlarges and acquires an ovoid shape. It begins to develop, the onion leaf breaks. If a spot forms on the neck of the onion, a constriction appears that affects the scales of the bulb.
root rot- brown spots form on the soil or slightly below. The spots grow and cause rotting of the underground part of the onion. Onions become infected from the moment the seeds appear, or may die before they appear on the ground. Rot develops due to the large stagnation of water in the ground.
pink rot- first, the onion roots turn yellow, then turn pink, dry out and die. The bulb stops growing, but this has little effect on the leaves. In some cases, the tips dry out.
Gray and neck rot- small white spots appear on the leaves with a light green edging around. The onion grows slowly, the leaves are crooked, rotting closer to the neck of the bulb. A gray coating forms between the scales of the bulb.
It is the most dangerous disease, as rot develops imperceptibly and slowly. The upper part of the bulb becomes soft, a fluffy coating forms. The bulb is covered with a black coating and infects healthy ones.
Onions, like many plants, love moist soil, for this you need to moisten it more often. Preferably in the evening. But don't flood. About 7 times in a month.
Improper watering is the most common mistake when growing onions. Proper watering includes not only water to drink, but also feed. Loosen the soil more often, both before and after watering.
When the length of the pen reaches about 8 cm, you need to carefully, without hitting the leaves, pour the soil with saline. A 10 liter bucket requires 200 grams of salt. With the addition of ammonia (100 g), the effect will increase. This method should be applied no more than four times per season, as it leads to soil salinization. To prevent this from happening, you need to try to pour the saline solution only on the bulbs, trying not to get on the ground and leaves.
Onions do not like overheating; this negatively affects the roots of the plant, which leads to yellowing. Therefore, onions grow well in early spring in greenhouses when it's still cool. In summer, you can cover the plants with a covering material so that direct sunlight does not harm. But growing onions in the shade of trees does not work - the feathers stretch out and become thinner - the bulb almost does not grow.
To replenish the supply of nutrients and nitrogen, urea or ammonium nitrate and sulfate can be used. And also use complex mineral fertilizers.
The simplest and fast way nitrogen application will be mullein infusion.
To get rid of the onion fly, use a mixture of lime and tobacco, in equal proportions. Calculate 6 grams per 1 square meter. Etching should be done with the first appearance of flies, and repeated after a week. For a 10 liter bucket we take 200 grams of tobacco and the same amount of lime, we insist for a couple of days. We store in a dark place. Dilute twice and spray.
What to do if you water in moderation, and there is no sultry heat, and the leaves turn yellow? There is only one conclusion - the lack of strength in plants. During planting, the onion spent a lot of energy, so to speak, they ate everything useful material located in the soil. Over time, exhausted and left hungry.
To help, you need to dilute a liter jar of litter in a 5 liter bucket, and let it brew for a couple of days. We take a bucket of water, pour a liter of this medicine and pour it between the rows. Thus, we feed and give strength for further growth.
If the onion has already turned yellow, there is a method that will help it recover. Pour a couple of handfuls of ash, an ampoule of ammonia, 100 grams of salt into a 10 liter bucket of warm water. Mix well and pour over. Carefully. Water should not wet the feathers themselves.
This method helps with onion fly damage and other pests and diseases. To consolidate the result in the fall, it is necessary to dig up the soil. The deeper, the greater the likelihood of a successful harvest next year.
With the right and healthy care, the bow will please with its rich and pleasantly green color.
In the struggle for your harvest, it is better to resort to folk remedies, and not to poison with chemistry, which will harm not only humans, but also the soil. Now you know why the onion turns yellow in the garden and how to help it.
