"Eight kids? Then you better pave the children's room!” - the consultant recommended to a mother with many children, who was desperate to find a suitable flooring for your home. Of course, this is a joke. And in real life we have a great alternative to rough asphalt as you can DIY epoxy flooring.

Epoxy self-leveling floors look great and endure almost any load.

Advantages and disadvantages of epoxy self-leveling floor

It's hard to come up with best coverage than epoxy floors. A mixture of epoxy resin and hardener, when cured, forms a durable monolithic layer, which has a number of excellent performance characteristics:

• high wear resistance;
• amazing strength;
• the ability to tolerate extremely high or low temperatures;
• excellent adhesion to various types of substrates;
• complete absence of seams;
• low cleaning costs;
• resistance to aggressive chemicals;
• durability;
• wide possibilities for design, etc.

These qualities make it possible to use self-leveling epoxy floors in a wide variety of enterprises and institutions: in production workshops, laboratories, clinics, kindergartens and schools, in garages, on trading floors and in other similar places. IN last years more and more often this type of flooring is preferred by the owners of residential buildings and city apartments.

As great as epoxy flooring is, it has a number of disadvantages to consider:

• the process of pouring the floor requires careful preparation and high labor costs;
• the cost of labor and materials can be quite high;
• in case of improper installation, delamination of the coating may be observed;
• if there is a need for repair, it is almost impossible to choose a composition that ideally matches the color of the main coating;
• Removing a damaged or outdated epoxy floor will require a lot of time and effort.

Proper use of tools guarantees high-quality installation of self-leveling floor

How to prepare the base

The most reliable basis for a self-leveling epoxy floor is a concrete screed. If necessary, you can pour the composition on another base, for example, on ceramic tiles however, this will require diligent preparation. Theoretically, it is possible to fill the composition even on wooden surface, but practice shows that the service life of such a coating will be noticeably reduced due to the deformation properties of wood.

The basic requirements for the condition of the surface are as follows: it must be sufficiently even and sufficiently dry. Deviation from the horizontal is allowed in the amount of not more than 2 mm for every 2 meters. Sometimes this result can be achieved only with the help of special self-leveling mixtures.

Admissible humidity of the basis - no more than 4%. This requirement should not be neglected, since the epoxy self-leveling floor has almost zero vapor permeability. If moisture from the base gets on the main layer of the floor covering, it will quickly begin to collapse.

Careful preparation of the base significantly affects the strength of the self-leveling floor

Advice:
To determine the moisture content of the base, use an ordinary plastic film, approximately 100x100 cm in size. It must be hermetically glued to the base with adhesive tape and left for two days. If during this time no drops of condensed moisture appear under the film, the base can be considered sufficiently dry.

A fresh concrete screed usually acquires a given brand strength and the required moisture content within four weeks. Harder to work with old coupler. First you need to remove the remnants of the old floor covering, as well as stains of paint, dirt, grease and any other contaminants from it. Then you should repair cracks, chips and carefully level the surface. You can strengthen the base with a layer of epoxy paint.

How to make self-leveling floors

The primer is applied in two layers, the second - after complete drying of the first. If islands of gloss appear on the dried primer layer, there is a high probability of contamination. Such places should be cleaned and primed again. In areas that absorb the primer more intensively, more composition should be used. The second layer of primer composition is immediately sprinkled with quartz sand.

Advice:
After applying each layer, it is recommended to soak the rollers in a solvent.

For complete drying of the primed surface, 24 hours are allotted. After that, it's time to apply the base coat. It is poured in wide strips and spread with a squeegee and spatula to distribute the composition evenly. It is possible to move on the floor surface during pouring only in special paint shoes, which are put on work shoes. Move carefully, avoiding shuffling movements. To remove air bubbles from the composition, it is rolled with an aeration roller.

Only two days after pouring the floor, you can start applying the final protective layer. A decorative layer is usually placed under this durable transparent coating. Sometimes an additional layer of polyurethane varnish is applied to the self-leveling floor.

Tip: Although epoxy floors practically do not shrink, it is still recommended to arrange along the walls and fill the heat-shrink joints with sealant.

Design Opportunities

Epoxy self-leveling floor can be decorated in almost any way. The easiest way: pour special decorating chips on the base layer that has not yet hardened. But there are other design possibilities as well.

A self-leveling epoxy floor design can have a stunning effect

After the coating has dried, you can paint the surface of the base layer with acrylic paints. Hand-painted is a great option for an exclusive design for an apartment.

In the printing house, you can order a banner network, which is applied to any digital image with sufficient resolution. A graphic image created using vinyl stickers or a self-adhesive stencil can be somewhat cheaper. Special chic - modern volumetric printing. A 3D image is created using a layer of special microlenses. Order such elements in advertising agencies or printing companies.

After the decorative layer is applied and firmly fixed, it is covered with a transparent finishing layer. Sometimes glossy surface self-leveling floor distorts the effect of the design image. In this case, you can use a special polyurethane matting varnish.

Nautical theme looks very impressive

If improperly laid parquet or laminate can be partially dismantled and replaced with new elements, then this option is not suitable for self-leveling floors. Each stage of pouring the floor should be performed perfectly, only then the flooring will be of the highest quality. That is why this work should be entrusted to professional craftsmen.

Modern building technology provide a wide range of options for finishing flooring in residential, office, industrial or public spaces. Self-leveling floors on various bases are becoming more and more in demand and popular - cement, polymer concrete, polyurethane, methyl methacrylate, epoxy. The process of arranging such coatings is quite complex, requiring high skills. Nevertheless, many homeowners are wondering: can you lay, for example, epoxy self-leveling floors with your own hands?

This publication aims to give an idea of ​​the general technology of pouring an epoxy floor, the sequence and nuances of all stages of work, and even the estimated cost of the future coating. After reviewing it, it will be possible to make a decision - to take up the matter on your own or still trust the master builders.

What speaks in favor of choosing an epoxy floor:

• First of all - excellent mechanical strength of the coating, including resistance to abrasion, abrasive load, crumbling, cracking. The result - such a floor can last 3 - 4 decades.
• Epoxy coating is not afraid of almost any chemical reagents, even the most aggressive - solvents, technical fluids.
• The highest water resistance - the floor does not absorb and does not let water through, thus becoming an excellent waterproofing of the room.
• Epoxy coating is immune to temperature extremes, to the damaging effects of UV rays.
• The material is of high purity from the point of view of ecology, and does not pose any fire hazard - it is absolutely non-flammable.
• Filling an epoxy floor, unlike, for example, polyurethane, is not accompanied by persistent unpleasant odors.
• Epoxy coating, subject to technological requirements when pouring, gives a perfectly flat floor plane, with the required gloss, dullness or roughness.

If you wish and skill, using a transparent component composition, you can make exclusive two- or even three-dimensional artistic compositions - a wide scope for design creativity.

• Caring for such a coating does not present any problems - it does not collect dust or dirt, it can be easily wet cleaned.

How to pour epoxy floor

Of course, if we take into account large areas pouring (halls, halls, sports facilities, etc.), then this is a very complicated matter, which will require highly qualified craftsmen and very clear, well-coordinated actions of the entire construction team. On the scale of one apartment, when carrying out repairs and replacing floor coverings, for example, in the kitchen, in the hallway, bathroom or small room, it is quite possible to handle it yourself, of course, strictly, to the smallest detail, following the established surface preparation technology and the pouring process. There are no trifles here - it is not difficult to spoil the coating with ill-conceived actions, but dismantling it later for refilling is an extremely difficult task.

What is required for work

The choice of epoxy bulk systems for floors is currently quite large. To consider the pouring process using a specific example, let's take Elakor-ED, a product of the Russian company TeoChem.

Russian company TeoChem - full trust

This system includes almost all the required components for the pouring process steps. She deserved a lot of positive reviews, and even against the background of "promoted" foreign brands stands out for the better. Let it be, in addition, a kind of "curtsy" to the domestic manufacturer.

So, what and in what quantity will be required for the installation of the floor, and how much will it approximately cost? For convenience of calculations, we proceed from an area of ​​10 m² with a coating thickness of 2.5 mm ( this is the minimum allowable layer). Based on these calculations, it will not be difficult to carry out a calculation for a specific room.

1. For surface priming:

• Soil two-component "Elakor-ED 2K / 100" - 3 kg, approximately 930 rubles.

2. To apply the base coat:

• Two-component self-leveling floor "Elakor-ED" - 7 kg, 1820 rubles.
• Purified quartz sand - 23 ÷ 25 kg, 200 rubles.

3. To apply the base coat:

• Two-component self-leveling floor "Elakor-ED" - 18 kg, 4680 rubles.

Total approximate cost of materials - 7630 rubles.

4. Epoxy coating is recommended, for greater strength and wear resistance, to cover with a layer of polyurethane transparent varnish ("Elakor-PU Lux"). Its consumption is small - about 1.2 kg per 10 m². Let's add another 570 rubles to the total cost.

Total in total - 8200, or 820 rubles. behind square meter sex - the price is quite "democratic".

In addition, you may need to apply epoxy putty to repair the concrete base. For these purposes, there is " Elakor-ED-2K", But its quantity is difficult to determine in advance - it all depends on the state of the base.

Now - the tools for work:

• Construction mixer or drill with a nozzle. A prerequisite is the presence of a speed controller and reverse. A wire mixer attachment will not work.
• Powerful vacuum cleaner (ideally - construction).
• Spatulas of different lengths - from 150 to 600 mm.

• The rollers are sintepon, with a pile of 12-15 mm.

This is what lies behind the mysterious name "squeegee"

• Squeegee.
• Metal or plastic containers - you can dilute components in them and soak tools in a solvent.
• Personal protective equipment for the skin of hands and face (respirator or mask, rubber gloves).

• Paint shoes - attachments for work shoes for moving on a flooded surface.

Floor surface preparation

The base for pouring the floor requires careful preliminary preparation.

One of the main requirements is its horizontality. Minor differences are allowed, not more than one mm per meter of length. Of course, the self-leveling floor also levels out large differences, but this will result in a huge overrun of the material, which will lead to a significant overall increase in the cost of the coating. If the differences exceed the specified value, you will have to level the floor with a concrete screed, and start work only after it has fully matured. The residual moisture content of the substrate must not exceed 4%.

If the horizontal level of the floor is observed, then it can be prepared for priming. It is necessary to remove, if any, “weak” places where there are areas of delamination or crumbling. Be sure to remove the remnants of old coatings - bitumen, paint, etc. If there are soaked spots, they should be cut down to a clean base.

Garbage is first swept away with a stiff brush, and then a thorough dusting is carried out - a powerful vacuum cleaner is required.

Priming and surface coating

An approximate diagram of the layers of the epoxy floor is shown in the figure.

However, what looks simple enough in the image will require a lot of effort in practice.

Starting from this moment, all operations require compliance with a certain microclimate in the room, as they will be associated with the use of epoxy component compositions.

• Humidity in the room should not exceed 80%.
• All kneaded components must have a temperature below 15÷20º.
• room temperature, and , in particular, on the surface of a concrete floor - from 5 to 25º. A sharp drop in air and surface temperature is not allowed - the difference is not more than 4º at a level of 0.5 m from the floor.

For mixing materials, it is necessary to foresee a place in advance where even the slightest chance of splashing of components on the surface to be poured will be excluded.

The deadline from the last dedusting to the start of priming work is no more than 2 hours.

• The primer is most often kneaded in its regular capacity. Into the bucket with component "A" is poured component "B" and mixed at a speed of about 500 rpm. in forward and reverse direction. The required rotation speed can even be determined visually - a funnel should form about 1/5 of the height of the bucket.

• You should get a completely homogeneous mixture. After turning off the mixer, the composition should stand for 3-4 minutes in order for natural aneration to occur - the release of air bubbles. The finished primer has a "lifetime" of the order of 30÷40 minutes. - you need to fully develop it during this time.
• The soil spills over on lu with a snake and evenly distributed with a synthetic winterizer roller to achieve an overall glossy surface. If for some reason on the in certain areas, an increased absorption of the composition is noticed, it should be immediately added and distributed additionally. The term of polymerization of the primary soil layer is about a day.
• When the soil has hardened, one more revision of the floor surface should be carried out, the recesses, cracks, and chips should be puttied. You can use a special putty for this, diluting it in accordance with the instructions and enriching it with 1 ÷ 3 parts of quartz sand. If the defects are very minor, then you can get by with the component composition of the self-leveling floor, also mixing it with quartz sand to the consistency required for puttying.

• When the puttied places harden, a second layer of primer (the so-called tread) is applied, while lightly powdering it with quartz sand.
• After allowing the soil to completely harden, in a day you can proceed to further operations.

Application of the base, underlying layer

The main purpose of the base layer is the complete blocking of all remaining pores, the final smoothing of irregularities and differences, and the preparation of the base for pouring the topcoat. Its thickness should reach about 1.5 mm.

• You should immediately put paint shoes on your feet, but when moving along on lu exclude shuffling.
• The primer composition is being prepared again, approximately at the rate of 400 ml per 1 m². It is poured in strips and spread evenly with a spatula, so that did not form puddles.
• After 20 minutes, the surface of the entire floor is covered with an excess of pure quartz sand with a fraction of 0.3 to 0.6 mm. Its approximate consumption is at least 1.5 kg per 1 m².

• After 15 ÷ 20 hours, after the complete polymerization of the primer, the remnants of unabsorbed sand are removed with a hard plastic brush, and the surface is again subject to thorough dedusting.
• Next comes the sealing layer. At this stage, mixing of the main composition of the epoxy floor is already required.
• The mixing process itself is similar to the one described above, but there are some nuances of their own. The main component "A" is initially mixed independently, for at least 3-5 minutes in the forward and reverse direction. Without stopping the rotation, add the component "B" in portions. Be sure to pay Special attention thorough mixing in the most hard-to-reach places- in the corners between the bottom and the walls of the bucket. When the required uniformity is achieved, it will again take up to 3 minutes for air to escape, and then the composition is immediately used for work. In no case should the finished mixture be in the container for more than 10 minutes.
• The composition is poured over the surface and spread evenly with a rubber spatula or doctor blade. When working, you should focus on the consumption rate - about 400 ml per 1 m². Special care - in corners, places of contact with other coatings, near walls, columns, etc.

• If the master plans to make a two-dimensional decoration of the floor with inclusions (chips), coins or other flat objects, they are laid out on the surface right now.
• Again, it takes 15÷20 hours to cure the entire base coat. Then you can conduct a thorough inspection of the resulting surface and, if necessary, eliminate minor errors - this is done with a small amount of epoxy.

Filling the front, finishing layer

The final stage of work, requiring special care. In many ways, both the decorative effect and the operational characteristics of the finished filler floor will depend on the quality of its execution.

• The main epoxy mixture is being prepared - in the same way as in the previous stage of work. It spills over on lu wide strips with a flow rate depending on the thickness of the planned coating. However, its quantity, in order for the self-leveling effect to “work”, should not be less than 1000 ml per 1 m² at a surface temperature of about 20ºС. If the temperature is lower, the flow rate increases. So, at + 5ºС, about 1800 ml per 1 m² will be required.

• The composition is evenly distributed over the entire surface of the doctor blade. Approximately in 10-15 minutes (but no way no later than through half an hour) the entire surface is rolled with a spiked roller. This will allow the exit of air bubbles remaining in the thickness of the material - the textural uniformity of the polymer surface will be ensured.

• The period of complete setting of the filled finish layer is at least a day. However, the mechanical load on it is permissible only after 5-6 days. Throughout this period, the floor surface must be completely open, but with the obligatory observance of conditions that exclude the ingress of moisture, dirt, any liquids and, in particular, dust.

You can limit yourself to this, but it is better, when the epoxy coating is ready, to apply transparent polyurethane varnish, which will become an additional effective surface protection. It is applied with a roller or brush in 1-2 layers with a total consumption of about 100-120 ml per 1 m². It takes about a day for the varnish to dry completely, but it will be possible to start using the premises only after 3-4 days.

Video - one example of pouring an epoxy floor

So, pouring technology is quite laborious, requires constant attention and increased accuracy. The device of such a coating, even in the smallest room, will take no less 10÷12 days. It is worth really assessing your capabilities before taking on such a job. Nevertheless, everything is quite doable, if you carefully observe all the nuances. technological process.

Epoxy resins are a universal material that can be used with equal success in industrial and civil construction. Epoxy-based self-leveling floors can be found in industrial premises, including those where floor coverings are subjected to serious chemical stress. They are placed in shops and warehouses. Even in automotive plants, where the traffic load is especially high, epoxy resin is also used for self-leveling floors. You can also buy such material for arranging an exploited roof.

Almost any surface can serve as the basis for an epoxy floor: asphalt, cement strainer, tiles, etc. The material in any case provides a high degree of adhesion to the bearing base.

General information about epoxy floors and their benefits

The main components of self-leveling floors are resin and hardener, in addition, fillers, water, defoamers, thickeners and other components are added to the mixture. There is an epoxy resin for self-leveling floors, transparent and colored, which significantly improves the decorative properties of the coating. Other benefits of epoxy self-leveling floors include:

• No seams. The surface is perfectly even and smooth, which minimizes the possibility of accumulation of moisture, dirt, bacteria, etc.
• Simple care. It is worth buying a transparent epoxy resin for the floor and you can forget about the painful laundering of constantly dirty floors. The cover is stain resistant and easy to clean.
• Durability. The resin significantly increases the strength of the floor and prevents its abrasion, and given that such a coating also has chemical resistance, we can safely talk about a service life of several decades.
• Fire resistance. Epoxy floors are fire resistant and high temperatures. In addition, they successfully withstand repeated spills of hot water.
• Strength. Epoxy floors can be cleaned using harsh chemicals and abrasives. And thanks to special additives, such a coating is able to withstand the effects of petroleum products, acids and alkalis.

In our company you can buy everything necessary materials in order to fill the self-leveling floor based on epoxy resin. Epoxy resin for self-leveling floors, the price of which is undoubtedly affordable with us, is of high quality and is confirmed by the relevant certificates. You can make a purchase from any city in Russia online. The manager of the company will advise you on the choice suitable material and will help to calculate the required amount of goods to perform a specific amount of work.

Polymeric epoxy floors are used for finishing not only industrial, but also residential premises. They represent enough solid construction, which, contrary to popular belief, does not pose any danger to human health. Epoxy self-leveling floor can often be seen in airports, private homes and restaurants.

What is this material?

Epoxy floor coating is a two-component composition based on a hardener and epoxy resin. The mixture also includes:

• Pigments that give the emulsion the desired shade;
• Fillers;
• Special additives that during pouring ensure an even distribution of the emulsion over the floor.

Thanks to this composition, the filling of floors with epoxy resins is greatly simplified. In this case, the coating is obtained not only seamless and smooth, but also very durable.

It should also be noted that this two-component material has pronounced antistatic properties and good vapor permeability. At the same time, the polymer epoxy floor coating may vary in texture:

• matte and semi-matte;
• glossy and semi-gloss.

Where are they applied?

This type of coating is subject to certain requirements, fixed in the relevant standard (GOST-R 50766-95), according to which, epoxy-polyester floor coating can be used in the pharmaceutical and food industries, printing houses, as well as workshops specializing in electronics.

To date, the scope of application of two-component emulsions based on epoxy resins has expanded significantly. They have also been used in:

• educational institutions;
• clubs, cafes and restaurants;
• luxury apartments;
• medical institutions;
• private and multi-apartment buildings.

Note: Epoxy flooring can be poured not only indoors, but also outdoors. This is possible thanks to the wonderful performance characteristics material.

What are the pros and cons?

Epoxy flooring materials have become very popular for a reason. After all, they have a large number of advantages compared to other types of floors:

• Ease of care. Epoxy flooring is very easy to wash and clean. It is much easier to care for them than, for example, for a parquet surface;
• Significant temperature differences do not affect the quality of the material. For this reason, they can be easily used even in baths. If you leave epoxy liquid floors for the winter in an unheated room, their surface will not begin to crack and burst;
• Due to the solidity of the coating, there are no places of significant accumulation of dirt on the floor;
• Wear resistance. Epoxy resin floors, laid in compliance with the technological process, will last for decades. Moreover, due to the maintainability of the material, scratches, chips and dents are very easy to eliminate. This will require a regular brush and a transparent epoxy;
• Resistance to chemical influence (solutions, acids, alkalis);
• Good waterproofing. If you decide to use this type of flooring, you do not have to think about additional waterproofing of the room. The polymer solution itself will cope with this task.

True, epoxy liquid floors are not without drawbacks, they are also worth mentioning:

• Price. The material itself costs a lot of money, in addition, it is necessary to take into account the cost of work carried out by specialists in pouring the emulsion;
• Any type of damage is very visible on the surface;
• Since epoxy flooring is a monolith, it will be very problematic to dismantle it.

Coating types

A modern manufacturer is able to offer the consumer many types of epoxy textures. They are specially made for specific operating conditions, so they must also be taken into account:

1. Thin-layer. During the pouring of such an emulsion, a layer with a thickness of about 1 mm is formed. Despite the dubious thickness of the surface, it copes well with mechanical and chemical loads;
2. Thick-layer. Unlike the previous version, this design may not be single-layer. The thickness of one layer also does not exceed 1 mm. But due to the application of several layers, the floor is very durable. It easily copes with chemical reagents and mechanical loads. Now such materials are often used in housing construction;
3. Quartz coating. Quartz sand is added to the bottom layer of the composition, which improves the adhesion of the lower and upper layers. The material is resistant to almost any kind of load, which makes it very durable and reliable. Such a floor covering can even be decorated for a certain interior of the room;
4. Epoxy industrial floors used in the construction of industrial facilities. They are able to withstand enormous loads of both mechanical and chemical nature. At the same time, the epoxy self-leveling floor coating can be one- or two-layer, multi-colored or plain, matte or glossy, rough or very smooth.

Quite serious requirements are imposed on this type of floors:

• environmental Safety;
• safety while walking on the surface;
• fire safety.

Criterias of choice

If you decide to purchase epoxy-polyamide flooring materials, consider the product selection tips offered by experts:

• You can fill the floor not only indoors, but also in the garage, since the temperature difference for the coating is not terrible;
• The composition of emulsions may vary. It all depends on the purpose of the coverage. For significant dynamic loads, one type of emulsion is suitable, for chemical action - the second, and for current non-conduction - the third;
• aesthetic component. Most likely, for industrial premises, this criterion is not very important, but for restaurants and private dwellings, this is the main thing. Epoxy flooring mixes can be of all kinds of colors and shades, even with the presence of patterns and ornaments. You can also purchase materials with a 3D effect that will decorate the interior of any room.

How to fill?

If you decide to pour epoxy self-leveling floors with your own hands, you need to take into account a lot of nuances when carrying out construction works. Regardless of which type of liquid floor you choose, the application technology will be the same.

Foundation preparation

• First you need to prepare the base. If you are going to pour on a concrete base, please note that the temperature in the room should not be below 5 degrees;
• Also, you can not start work if the humidity in the room is above 75-80%;
• At this stage, you need to detect and eliminate all defects on the coating (dents, chips). To cope with the task, use ordinary cement mortar to seal defects;
• If the surface is very large, preliminary grinding and polishing in this matter will not hurt;
• Remove construction debris and sanding dust.

Surface priming

• Then the floor needs to be primed. This stage is needed in order to improve the adhesion of the base to the liquid emulsion;
• When the primer dries, sprinkle the floor with quartz sand. Only then will the base be ready for pouring.

The video and photo show the implementation of all preparatory work taking into account the characteristics of the room and the base of the floor (metal, concrete, wood).

Applying the base coat

• When the primer is completely dry (at least a day), proceed to pour the base layer;
• The self-leveling polymer product is applied in strips;
• To evenly distribute the composition, use a doctor blade. Then the layer thickness will be the same over the entire area;
• To distribute the emulsion in the corners of the room, you can use a spatula;
• To prevent air bubbles from forming in the coating, roll the entire surface with a special roller with needles;
• By the way, you should also be wearing paint shoes that will not leave marks on the floor.

Applying the final layer

• This stage of laying is practically no different from the previous version. To fix the effect, you can apply polyurethane varnish. It will make the surface of the floor glossy;
• Wait until the varnish dries. This will take at least 2 days.

As you can see, pouring an epoxy floor with your own hands is not so difficult. The material is laid by the method of monolithic casting. In this case, there are no joints between the sections. If necessary, decorative layers can be applied zoned. It is not uncommon for professionals to refer to these areas as chips. According to the design project, various decorative elements can be laid under the finishing layer, which will visually divide the room into zones.

In the manufacture of epoxy self-leveling floors are used:

• Epoxy primer
• Epoxy putty for sealing surface defects (ratio of components on the package).
• Epoxy self-leveling floor (ratio of components on the package).

The sequence of applying the compositions of the epoxy self-leveling floor

1. concrete base
2. Primer layer
3. Filling surface defects
4. Subfloor underlayment
5. The front layer of self-leveling epoxy floor
6. Decorative chips (if required)
7. final varnish layer

Requirements for the implementation of self-leveling floors

Basic requirements for the technology of self-leveling floors

• The concrete floor (floor sub-base) must meet the requirements described in Sub-base Requirements.
• The temperature of the base of the floor and the air temperature should be between +5°C and up to 25°C.
• Material temperature - from +15°С to +20°С.
• At the time of laying the floor and the next day after it, the air humidity should not exceed more than 80%.
• The air-subfloor temperature is at least 3°C ​​above the "Dew Point".
• Temperature of storage and transportation of materials - from -30°С to +30°С.
• Humidity of warping - no more than 4 mass.%.

The times indicated below for priming, puttying, underlayment and face coat are indicated depending on the temperature of the floor.

Requirements for equipment and tools

A mandatory requirement when using a tool is the absence of lubricants on their working surface. This is so important because the ingress of grease on the base can cause the formation of defects on the surface of the self-leveling floor. That is why it is better to soak the tool in a solvent (xylene, solvent) for 4-6 hours, then carefully remove the grease.

For preliminary priming of the layers, it is necessary to use sintipon medium-haired rollers (pile length 12-14 mm). Upon completion of the application of the layer, the roller, for further use, can be immersed in a solvent to prevent polymerization.

Steel spatulas up to 600 mm wide are used for applying the putty and the underlying layer. At the same time, the spatula must also be clean and have a smooth edge so that the entire plane can adhere to the concrete base. The formation of cracks between the spatula and the concrete base is unacceptable. Otherwise, the tool must be replaced.

To evenly distribute the composition in the front layer, a squeegee is used, which must be clean, and all mustaches are set equally on the caliper according to the design thickness of the front layer.

To remove air from the front layer of the coating, as well as to distribute the material over the surface, a spiked (rotary, aeration) roller should be used. It is advisable to use a new roller for these purposes or a roller that is sufficiently clean, i.e. without traces of the composition, moisture, solvents, detergents, lubricants, etc. In this case, all segments should be easily movable and could touch the surface. If this is not possible, then it is better to use a needle roller of a smaller width.

Soles for a self-leveling floor - soles which are used for movement on liquid material at all stages of production of works. The soles must also be clean and dry, and firmly fixed on the feet.

Mixer and mixer
A mixer for mixing materials must meet this purpose, while having the function of changing speed, reverse, and have a power of at least 1.5 kW. The optimum speed depends on the type of mixer used and the temperature of the floor when mixing. Double helical belt mixers are well suited for such purposes.

Mixer speed is approximately 400-600 rpm. In this case, the mixer should be immersed in the container to the full depth of the tata in order to create movement of the entire volume of material.

The use of an industrial vacuum cleaner is due to the need to remove dust from the base before priming and after sanding the putty layer. For these purposes, it is better to use only specialized equipment that is properly configured.

Foundation Requirements

The first and main requirement when creating self-leveling floors is a flat surface of the concrete floor. It is allowed to deviate the base from the horizontal plane over a length of 2 m no more than 2 mm. In this case, the base must be made of concrete and have a strength of at least M200, and also correspond to the expected load intensity.

The building must be waterproofed from groundwater.

If the concrete base is new, then it must stand, i.e. gain its branded strength, residual moisture content is not more than 4 mass%.

If the concrete base is not new (was in operation), then it should not contain foreign traces (stains of machine oil, animal and vegetable fats, etc.).

To check the residual moisture of the base, use a 1x1 m polyethylene film attached to the concrete base with a masking tape. In this state, the film is left for one day. If, after their expiration, condensate forms on the inner surface of the film, and the base under the film changes color, then it is FORBIDDEN to install a self-leveling floor.

If the surface of the base deviates (according to the requirements) from the plane, or there are impurities on it, then it is necessary to eliminate these defects - to level the surface and / or clean it.

In extreme cases, it is better to fill a new screed.

Preparation of self-leveling floor materials

The preparation of self-leveling floor materials begins with the organization of a place for mixing the compositions. Usually for these purposes:

• Separate "working hands" are used - workers who do not leave the "dirty zone" during the entire period of pouring the floor. If they are not available, then when leaving this room, workers should be provided with separate replacement shoes.
• In a dedicated area ("dirty area"), a double polyethylene film is used.
• Pay special attention to the presence of individual components on the outer surface of the container.

In other words, when organizing a place for mixing compositions, the main task is to prevent the components of the composition from getting on the surface of the concrete base. If this is not observed, then swelling and delamination of the coating may form at the points of contact with foreign components.

Technology for the preparation of epoxy primer
Epoxy primer is performed similarly to a self-leveling floor, with the only difference that component "A" is not pre-mixed.

After mixing, the epoxy primer should be worked out within:

• at 10°C - 1 hour;
• at 20°C - 40 min;
• at 25°С - 30 min.

The sequence of preparation of the self-leveling floor

• Open the container with component "A" and lower the mixer so that it almost touches the bottom of the container.
• Turn on the mixer and set the speed necessary for thorough mixing of the composition (approximately 400-600 rpm.).
• Switch the mixer to the reverse mode and carefully, against the movement of the component, stir component "A" near the bottom and walls of the container (container).
• Mix component "A" by volume using forward and reverse rotation for 3 minutes.
• Without interrupting mixing, pour in component "B". After the complete pouring of component "B", we continue to mix the components thoroughly for 2 minutes. At the same time, we do not forget about hard-to-reach places - the bottom and walls of the container.
• After mixing components "A" and "B", the resulting mixture must be defended for 3 minutes. This is done in order to release the entrained air.
• Pour the finished and settling composition and spread over the surface.

It should be remembered that the maximum time spent by the self-leveling floor composition in the container should not exceed more than 30 minutes.

Preparation of epoxy putty

• Mixing the components of the putty is similar to the preparation of the self-leveling floor.
• It is possible to use putty for filling the surface both clean (not diluted), and with the addition of sand to it. However, for these purposes, dry quartz sand without dust is used, the fraction of which is from 0.1 to 1 mm. The proportions of such a putty composition are prepared from a ratio of 1-3 parts by volume to 1 part of epoxy putty.
• After mixing the components of the epoxy putty, without interrupting the mixing, add sand to it.
• Stirring is continued until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

It should be remembered that the maximum residence time of the mixed epoxy putty in the container should not exceed:

• at 10°C - 50 min;
• at 20°C - 40 min;
• at 25°С - 30 min.

Instead of epoxy putty, for filling the surface, you can use a mixture of self-leveling floor mixed with quartz sand. The mixing technology is similar to that of mixing epoxy putty with sand.

Epoxy screed technology

Preparation of the concrete base

The main task of preparing the concrete base is to open the pores of the concrete. To do this, the base must be cleaned of cement laitance, the upper weakened layer of concrete, dirt, etc. must be removed. In this case, the thickness of the removed layer will depend on the composition and method of laying concrete and range from 1 to 4 mm.

You can clear the base with:

• mosaic grinder with corundum or diamond segments;
• sandblast cleaning;
• chemical milling.

The sludge formed during cleaning must be carefully removed from the surface with scrapers. Then sweep the surface with hard plastic brushes to remove sludge from pits, cavities and other defects in the concrete. If poorly cleaned areas are found, then additional surface treatment is necessary.

After completing the preparation of the base for pouring the coating, it is forbidden to move on it without clean changeable shoes!

Padding

The first layer of soil is applied to the base of the floor after the surface has been completely dedusted. In this case, the maximum interval between dedusting and applying the layer should be no more than one and a half hours.

For priming the surface, ready-made (already mixed) epoxy primer is used, which is poured over the surface with a "snake", after which it is evenly distributed over the entire area with rollers or flat metal spatulas.

The consumption of the applied epoxy primer will depend on the brand of concrete.

Epoxy primer drying time (interlayer exposure) at a temperature of 20°C - from 18 to 24 hours.

As with priming the surface before plastering, if after applying the 1st layer the concrete absorbs unevenly, then the highly absorbent areas of the base must be primed again. If, after applying the 1st layer of primers, glossy areas appear on the surface, then it is necessary to check them for the presence of cement laitance and other contaminants. If any are found, they must be removed, dusted, re-primed.

A second (second, possibly subsequent) layer is applied after polymerization of the 1st layer. During the application of the 2nd layer (protective), fresh soil must be evenly sprinkled with dry quartz sand of a fraction of 0.3-0.6 mm, while its consumption will be 100-150 g / sq. m.

Provided that the whole procedure was carried out technologically correctly, then immediately after the polymerization of the second layer, the entire surface will take the form of a homogeneous rough emery. Passes and dull unsaturated areas are not allowed.

Puttying (if necessary)

After applying primer layers to seal individual defects in the base, the surface is puttyed.

It should be remembered that the polymerization time of epoxy putty:

• at 10°C - 24 hours;
• at 20°C - 12 hours;
• at 25°C - 8 hours.

Underlayment

The purpose of the underlying layer is to completely close the pores of the concrete base. After all, unclosed pores of the surface usually lead to the formation of defects during the installation of the front layer of the self-leveling floor.

Also, the underlying layer serves:

• to eliminate minor defects in the surface of the base;
• to cover pores in the base up to 0.2 mm in size;
• to eliminate the drains of the front layer.

In this case, the layer thickness is 1.2-1.5 mm.

The sequence of operations performed

1. The pre-mixed epoxy primer is applied to the surface in strips, based on a consumption of 400g/sq.m.
2. Then it is carefully distributed with metal spatulas over the surface "on a peel". In this case, the formation of puddles and strips of excess material is not allowed.
3. Further, after 10-20 minutes, the soil is covered with an excess amount (more than 1.5 kg / sq.m.) of dry quartz sand with a fraction of 0.3-0.6 mm.
4. Performed in flats
   • Sliding (shuffling) movement in flat feet is not allowed when filling with sand
   • Any movement (with flat feet and without them) on a fresh composition covered with sand is not allowed.
   • Underlayment polymerization time:
     • at 10°C - 24 hours;
     • at 20°C - 12 hours;
     • at 25°C - 8 hours.

After polymerization of the underlying layer, it is necessary to remove excess sand with a brush with a hard plastic bristle. Then dust off the surface and seal the surface. For sealing, carefully spread the self-leveling floor over the surface with metal or rubber spatulas "on a peel". Consumption 300-400 g/sq.m.

After polymerization of the sealing layer, carry out a thorough visual inspection of the surface for composition runoff and other defects. If necessary, carry out puttying or abrasive treatment of areas, followed by dust removal.

face layer

It is necessary to predetermine the filling configuration in such a way that the perimeter of the filled grips, throughout the entire filling period, does not exceed the critical value. That is, a fresh batch of material must be docked with the boundary of the previous batch no later than 40 minutes after the start of laying the previous batch.

When planning the fill configuration, it is necessary to remember about the expansion joints, which are the boundaries of the fill grips.

You also need to pre-limit the predicted area to be filled with masking tape. This is done for the convenience of continuing work after a break and marking the map of expansion joints.

The order of operations

1. We prepare the composition of the self-leveling floor for work.
2. Apply to the surface in strips, taking into account the design thickness of the front layer.
3. We evenly distribute the composition over the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site with the help of doctor blades.
4. Not later than after 40 minutes, carefully and evenly roll the composition with a spiked roller to remove entrained air, even out the color and texture of the surface. It is carried out in flat shoes - soles for self-leveling floors.

Sliding (shuffling) movement in flat feet is prohibited.

The minimum consumption required for self-levelling of the face layer depends on the substrate temperature and is:

• at a temperature of +25°С - from 1.0 kg/sq.m.;
• at a temperature of +5°С - up to 1.8 kg/sq.m.

Maximum working time with self-leveling floor poured onto the surface:

• at 10°C - 3 hours;
• at 20°C - 1.5 hours;
• at 25°C - less than 1 hour.

Maximum polymerization time of the front layer:

• at 10°C - 24 hours;
• at 20°C - 12 hours;
• at 25°C - 8 hours.

It is strongly not recommended to scrape off the remains of a liquid self-leveling floor from the walls of an empty bucket. This is due to the fact that mixing may not be complete on the walls of the container, and the use of poorly mixed material can lead to the formation of blisters on the surface of the bulk coating.

After completing the work on applying the bulk layer and its polymerization, it is necessary to fill all expansion joints with polyurethane sealant according to the instructions of the sealant manufacturer.

Upon completion of pouring the self-leveling floor

• It is necessary to wait for the minimum holding time of the self-leveling epoxy floor, which depends on the temperature of the floor. The load can be created after the following time has elapsed:
• Pedestrian load - at temperatures (+20°С - 3 days, +15°С - 4 days, +10°С - 6 days);
• Full mechanical load - at temperatures (+20°С - 7 days, +15°С - 10 days, +10°С - 14 days).

It should be remembered that when curing, the self-leveling epoxy floor must be open. At the same time, it is not allowed to spill liquids, solutions, paints on it, get plaster, putties, dirt, etc. If this is not observed, then self-leveling floors streaks, surface haze, and other defects may occur.