Arrangement of the floor is an integral part of the repair of the premises in general. Of course, in different parts of the house or apartment, the floors are more functional and beautiful. different type and class, but in kitchens and bathrooms in recent times quite often you can find floors covered with tiles. Also, the floors in the hallway are often tiled - either over the entire area, or at least adjacent to front door part of the floor.
Do-it-yourself tile laying
Tiled floors (or floors covered with ceramic tiles) are very practical and durable. They are not afraid of moisture, are not combustible, it is easy to remove all pollution from them. The owners will not have to worry about replacing such floors for quite a long time. And you can choose an ornament for the floor for every taste and wallet. After all, the modern building materials market offers a huge assortment of tiles not only of domestic production, but also tile options, as they say, from all over the world.
In order for a beautiful and practical tiled floor to please you for as long as possible, you need to make sure that it is laid on a flat, flawless base.
Perfectly laid floor tiles
Otherwise, any tubercle missed during surface preparation or an unsealed gap in the concrete may give you an unpleasant surprise in the form of a cracked or loose tile. Therefore, if in the near future you do not plan to spend energy, time and additional materials on repairing or altering the floor, special attention should be paid to the stage of preparing the surface for laying tiles.
Floor tiling can be done using cement mortar with an admixture of special substances, as well as on specially designed mastic or tile adhesive. The preparation of the floor for tiling will vary from case to case, but the general requirements for bringing the floor to a condition suitable for tiling are almost identical.
To begin with, it is necessary to carefully examine general state and the reliability of the floor on which they plan to lay the tiles.
It seems that laying tiles on a plank base is impossible, however, this is not so. Of course, it is necessary to prepare a wooden floor for laying tiles very thoroughly.
Do-it-yourself floor tiling
So, the first thing to do is to hammer the protruding nail heads into the thickness of the tree, as well as screw and drown the screws in the thickness of the wood. The gaps between the boards are permissible with a width of no more than 2-3 mm. Softwood slats are driven into wider slots, which, in turn, are very desirable to be fixed with glue or carnations with hidden hats, driving them obliquely into the floor. After all the cracks are sealed in this way, the floor surface can be cycled and all potholes can be puttied.
After the putty has dried, it is desirable to sand the entire surface on a wooden block. Then the wooden base must be thoroughly cleaned of chips and sawdust, then soaked with an antiseptic and dried well, then primed with drying oil.
Another requirement: the boards should not bend when walking. If the boards sag, laying tiles on top of such a coating should be forgotten. Strengthen such a floor to required level will not work. The same applies to parquet flooring. If the parquet planks are loose, they must be securely fastened with nails or mastic.
Leveling the floor with chipboard
You can also put waterproofing from several layers of roofing material on a plank base. Then, above the floor level at a height of about 1 cm, it is securely fastened reinforced mesh with a cell of 10 cm, and a screed solution is poured, on top of which, after complete drying, tiles can be laid.
First you need to completely remove the remnants of grease and paint from the surface. The most convenient way to do this is with warm water, after dissolving caustic soda in it in a proportion of 150 g per 10 liters of water. You can also use a 2-3% hydrochloric acid solution. With the help of a scarpel, all protrusions are cut off from the surface, and all cracks and potholes are wetted and carefully sealed with cement mortar. Places where defects were found can be additionally treated with PVA glue. This will increase adhesion. Places where defects were repaired with a solution must be carefully smoothed out with a trowel, leveling them with the surface. After that, the floor is allowed to set for at least 12 hours, periodically wetting the surface with water. When the solution dries sufficiently, the entire base must be sanded with a coarse-grained timber and then carefully cleaned of dust.
An alternative is a self-leveling screed. To perform a screed, it is absolutely not necessary to be a specialist in construction, so if you decide to prepare the floor for tiling with your own hands, you should definitely pay attention to this technology. With the help of a screed, even seemingly hopeless floors are perfectly leveled under a variety of coatings. On the floor prepared in this way, both linoleum and parquet or parquet board, and tiles.
Prepare the floor for tiling with your own hands
First, a polystyrene foam dividing tape is laid at the junction of the floor and walls. All cracks and potholes are sealed with an adhesive composition, after drying of which the base is treated with a primer solution. If the base of the floor is too porous and fragile, then it should even be primed two or three times.
When the primer is completely dry, the base of the floor is carefully poured with a freshly prepared screed solution. If the solution is prepared in accordance with the recipe, it spreads easily over the base, while forming a flat surface. In some cases, a metal grater or notched trowel can be used to spread the mixture.
The result is a screed layer with a thickness of 2 mm to 1 cm. If the base is strongly inclined, the screed layer can be thicker. In order to avoid the formation of air bubbles in the thickness of the solution, the entire surface along and across is carefully passed several times with a special spiked roller. The same needle roller is used to improve docking between different portions of the solution. At the same time, this procedure avoids the formation of voids between the screed layer and the base. It is convenient to move around the floor filled with a semi-liquid solution on paint shoes - special shoes on pins.
Spreading the mix for laying tiles on the floor
Already after 12 hours of exposure at a temperature of at least 20 ° C, it will be possible to walk on the screed, and after two days the solution will dry completely, and you can start laying tiles.
If a layer of screed has already been applied to the surface, it must be carefully checked for strength. This is done by simply tapping with a small hammer. The sound when tapping should not be deaf, which indicates the absence of voids under the screed layer. Also, tapping will help to understand how high-quality the solution was. If the screed crumbles and delaminates, it will be better to fill in a new layer of mortar.
In addition, it is necessary to check how flat the surface on which the tile will be attached is. This is done using a two-meter aluminum rule. During the test, a gap is formed between the floor surface and the rule. The permissible value of this gap may be different depending on the forthcoming method of fixing the tiles. When using tile adhesive, the gap should not exceed 2 mm. If the tile will be attached to the mastic - 4 mm. If you plan to use a cement mortar, you can allow a gap of even 8 mm.
Check how horizontal the base for laying tiles will allow the building level. For best result the floor slope should not exceed 2% or, in other words, no more than 4 mm per 2 meters of length.
Leveling the surface for laying tiles
In bathrooms, preparing the floor for laying tiles has its own characteristics. In addition to leveling the base, before facing, it is necessary to carefully seal the joints between the floor and walls with a special waterproofing compound.
Systems of "warm floor", equipped under the screed, can be very different. And made from propylene pipes- including.
If the screed is checked, and there are no complaints about it, then before performing work, the “warm floor” system will need to be turned off for several days. Next, tiles are laid on the base in compliance with all recommendations regarding surface preparation for laying tiles. It is recommended to turn on the underfloor heating system no earlier than 2-3 days after grouting the joints between the tiles.
If the "warm floor" system is equipped with thermal mats, they also need to be turned off for the duration of the work. Tiles can be laid directly on the adhesive, without prior screeding. Glue for tiles, however, you will need a special one suitable for underfloor heating.
Laying tiles on the "warm floor"
Just as in the case of ceramic and tile, care should be taken that the base (subfloor) is even, without any flaws. If necessary, it is also recommended to perform a cement-sand floor screed to achieve the best result. Chipboard, OSB and even plywood can be used as the basis for PVC tiles.
Before starting work on laying tiles, it is recommended that the base be primed to increase the degree of adhesion between the materials.
The temperature in the room where PVC tiles will be laid should not fall below 15°C.
PVC tiles are installed using the butt-to-butt method. One of its differences from tiles or ceramics is that air bubbles can form under it when laying. To prevent this from happening, the surface of the tile is carefully tapped with a rubber mallet.
Before you start laying laminate flooring, it is imperative to properly prepare the floor surface. If this is not done, then the finishing material for the floor will quickly deteriorate, and further operation will become impossible. Preparing the floor for laminate has its own distinctive features in accordance with the starting flooring, the functionality of the room and the type of finishing material. The master must necessarily take into account these starting criteria, which will determine further actions.
Laminate flooring has a long service life if it is properly cared for and installed with high quality. But in the process of repair, it will take a lot of effort to create ideal conditions for this type of finishing material.
Preparing the floor for laminate flooring consists of the following points:
These steps are essential for preparing the floor base before laying laminate flooring. If the operation of such a floor provides for a long-term option, then you should take care of strengthening it.
Additional material is determined according to the base surface on which the laminate will be laid. Auxiliary material is a substrate for the main finish:
Other components may be needed. Determine the need for others finishing materials possible if you carefully study the situation. Auxiliary mixtures and agents for stripping and processing are sometimes required.
Preparing a floor for a laminate requires not only experience and auxiliary material, but also the availability of appropriate tools:
Additional tools may be needed if there are any special materials or installation conditions. For example, during the installation process itself, a screwdriver and a rubber hammer are required.
Preparation of the floor for laminate flooring is carried out in several stages:
Only after completing all the steps described above, you can start laying the laminate. Otherwise, the quality and further operation of this floor covering may remain in question.
The method of dismantling the old coating depends on what material is present on the floor. If the gaps and slopes are normal, and there are no deformations and chips on the surface of the old coating, then the laminate can be laid without prior dismantling. This can be done with almost any surface except carpet. Because it can further shrink, which will adversely affect the laminate.
Do-it-yourself preparation of floors for laminate flooring is carried out by dismantling the old coating:
The quality of the installation will depend on optimal parameters deviations: difference less than 3 millimeters per 1 linear meter and a maximum of 1 millimeter of clearance per 1 linear meter.
Preparation of a wooden floor for a laminate requires compliance with two main points: the difference between the boards is a maximum of 2 millimeters per 2 meters of length; a maximum of 4 millimeters of slope per 2 meters of space.
Now we will describe the process of preparing a wooden floor for a laminate with our own hands:
When the surface is smooth and clean, you can mount the substrate. The elimination of large defects between the boards is carried out with the help of building foam, sealant.
Preparation of the concrete floor for laminate flooring is carried out in accordance with the initial state of the concrete. Sometimes it is necessary to pour a self-levelling compound over the entire surface. It happens that a partial restoration of the concrete base may be necessary.
The new self-levelling fill is mounted like this:
Partial restoration is carried out using cement mortar. Focal repair work are made in accordance with all the rules: holding the level, grinding.
The floors in the apartments are exclusively concrete, so all installations are carried out in accordance with the conditions for preparing the concrete coating. If there is an old linoleum on the floor, then you can also leave it and lay the laminate on the starting surface.
Preparation for the laminate has its own characteristics associated with mounting the lining. If the laminate is laid on the ground floor, then auxiliary waterproofing is required. It is organized using polyethylene with a thickness of 0.01 cm. Polyethylene in the seams is fixed with construction tape.
The lining spreads on the same principle as polyethylene. Its joints must match the connection points of the polyethylene base. This will help increase the effectiveness of waterproofing.
The floor is prepared for laminate flooring with plywood quite often. This trick is used to improve the surface quality of a wooden floor. Often plywood is also used for the following purposes:
First, lags of small height are fixed. Plywood sheets are applied to them, the height of which is not more than 12 millimeters and not less than 10 millimeters. The distance between the screws is no more than 15 centimeters.
Preparing the floor for laying laminate is not only the successful formation of an even base, but also correct installation floor covering. First of all, it is worth checking the quality of the self-leveling screed, if any. The screed must be dry. Some brands guarantee complete drying in a week. Normally, all moisture from the screed "disappears" after two weeks.
If the alignment was done with plywood sheets or chipboard, then the seams between the plates must be sealed with sealant. Mounting foam less often used, as this material can shrink over time.
Depending on the characteristics of the microclimate of the room, the lining is installed. It is guided by it, you need to make the choice of substrate material. Additional materials for insulation, they are laid on a lining and fixed with adhesive tapes.
To learn some secrets regarding the correct laying of the laminate, you can turn to qualified specialists who independently installed and dismantled floor coverings.
It is quite difficult to lay out a laminate in an apartment with your own hands, so it is better to seek help from professionals. If you still want to learn how to lay it yourself, then for you there are special courses or forums for preparing floors for laminate, where you can learn how to work with building materials different configuration. Recommendations can also be obtained using paid consultations of a specialist.
Laying tiles is necessary only after the preparation of the floor has been completed. It is not difficult to make it if you carefully study the instructions.
Tiles should be laid on a hard, level surface.
After doing necessary work to prepare the floor for tiles, the base must have a flat surface that will adhere well to the tiled floor.
As a base for mounting tiles made of tiles or plastic, you can use a specially prepared surface made of various materials. Installation of tiles on the floor can be carried out on the following types coatings:
Materials and tools:
The old floor is dismantled, the base under it is leveled and primed.
Preparing the floor for laying tiles is approximately the same for all types of base. The only difference is which adhesive composition is chosen.
First of all, it is necessary to check whether the base has sufficient strength. If the base is a concrete screed, it is checked for strength.
To do this, the entire surface is tapped with a hammer. If, when struck by a hammer, ringing sound, then the coating is considered to be of high quality. At the same time, the concrete solution should not collapse or crumble.
If it turns out that the concrete screed has insufficient strength, you need to remove the areas that crumble from hammer blows. Neither their place needs to be poured with new concrete.
Then it is checked whether the base is sufficiently even. In order to be able to lay tiles, it is necessary that the underlying coating be even to the light.
Materials and tools:
The surface is checked for light using the rule. In this case, a two-meter rule made of aluminum is used.
Scheme of the floor under the tiles.
If the tile will be laid on glue, then the gap between the rule and the coating should not be more than 3 mm.
When laying on mastic, the clearance should not be more than 4 mm. When laying on cement mortar - 8 mm. All irregularities, defects should be noted with chalk.
Then check the horizontal level of the floor. The work is carried out with a building level having a length of 1.5 m. When measuring, the slope should not be more than 0.2% of the required length. That is, the slope should be no more than 4 mm per 2 linear meters of the rule.
Such a check is carried out if it is necessary to lay a tile with a flat surface in various premises. In the event that the installation will be performed in the shower with a slope towards the drain, you need to put a rail of a certain thickness under the rule. In this case, a horizontally located rule will show the required slope.
Materials and tools:
Scheme of a wooden floor under a tile.
All protrusions and depressions that were found during the check must be eliminated. With the help of a scarpel, you need to remove the protrusions.
Holes must be filled with cement. In the event that there are a lot of protrusions on the concrete base and they are large, then they are eliminated with the help of a perforator, which is turned on in the jackhammer mode.
If paint remains on the surface, it must be removed. Various oil stains are removed with a 3% hydrochloric acid solution or special means.
When treating surfaces with chemicals, it is necessary to use personal protective equipment: respirators, gloves, goggles. Work must be carried out in a well-ventilated area.
After removing irregularities, to prepare the floor for laying tiles, it is necessary to repair the joints between the floor slabs and between the walls and the floor. The joints are sealed with concrete grade M-150. Before laying concrete, the surface must be moistened with water.
If the tiled surface is going to be arranged in the bathroom, then it is necessary to perform waterproofing after concrete embedding.
Then the concrete coating must be treated with a metal brush.
Before installing the tile, the cement screed is primed.
Materials and tools:
How is wood flooring prepared for tiling?
The tile can also be laid on a base made of wood. Hardwood floors require special preparation.
Primarily, wood flooring treated with an antiseptic solution. The floor is then dried. After that, 2 layers of roofing material are laid on a wooden coating. This is necessary for moisture insulation. Then, above the layer of roofing material, you need to install a mesh of reinforcement, which has holes with a diameter of 10 cm. After that, a cement-sand screed is made, to which microfiber is added.
You can not lay tiles on linoleum and carpet. These covers are removed. Then the remaining glue is removed. If the floor covered with linoleum has a flat surface, you can lay cement-fiber boards on it, and then lay the tiles.
If the tiles are going to be mounted on a warm floor system, which is covered with a concrete screed, then the system is turned on for 2 days. Then turn off the system and lay the tile.
You can turn on the underfloor heating system again 3 days after the grouting is done.
If the tiles are mounted on thermal mats, they are first turned off. Installation is carried out without an additional screed device, directly on the tile adhesive, which can be used for underfloor heating.
After a thorough and thorough preparation of the floor according to the above rules, proceed to the installation of tiles. Thanks to the preparatory work performed according to the instructions, the laying of tiles will be of high quality, and the tiled coating will be strong, reliable and durable.
Laying tiles is necessary only after the preparation of the floor has been completed. It is not difficult to make it if you carefully study the instructions.
Tiles should be laid on a hard, level surface.
After performing the necessary work to prepare the floor for tiles, the base must have a flat surface that will adhere well to the tiled floor.
As a base for mounting tiles made of tiles or plastic, you can use a specially prepared surface made of various materials. Installation of tiles on the floor can be carried out on the following types of coatings:
Materials and tools:
The old floor is dismantled, the base under it is leveled and primed.
Preparing the floor for laying tiles is approximately the same for all types of base. The only difference is which adhesive composition is chosen.
First of all, it is necessary to check whether the base has sufficient strength. If the base is a concrete screed, it is checked for strength.
To do this, the entire surface is tapped with a hammer. If a ringing sound is produced when the hammer strikes, then the coating is considered to be of high quality. At the same time, the concrete solution should not collapse or crumble.
If it turns out that the concrete screed has insufficient strength, you need to remove the areas that crumble from hammer blows. Neither their place needs to be poured with new concrete.
Then it is checked whether the base is sufficiently even. In order to be able to lay tiles, it is necessary that the underlying coating be even to the light.
Materials and tools:
The surface is checked for light using the rule. In this case, a two-meter rule made of aluminum is used.
Scheme of the floor under the tiles.
If the tile will be laid on glue, then the gap between the rule and the coating should not be more than 3 mm.
When laying on mastic, the clearance should not be more than 4 mm. When laying on cement mortar - 8 mm. All irregularities, defects should be noted with chalk.
Then check the horizontal level of the floor. The work is carried out with a building level having a length of 1.5 m. When measuring, the slope should not be more than 0.2% of the required length. That is, the slope should be no more than 4 mm per 2 linear meters of the rule.
Such a check is carried out if it is necessary to lay tiles with a flat surface in various rooms. In the event that the installation will be performed in the shower with a slope towards the drain, you need to put a rail of a certain thickness under the rule. In this case, a horizontally located rule will show the required slope.
Materials and tools:
Scheme of a wooden floor under a tile.
All protrusions and depressions that were found during the check must be eliminated. With the help of a scarpel, you need to remove the protrusions.
Holes must be filled with cement. In the event that there are a lot of protrusions on the concrete base and they are large, then they are eliminated with the help of a perforator, which is turned on in the jackhammer mode.
If paint remains on the surface, it must be removed. Various oil stains are removed with a 3% hydrochloric acid solution or special means.
When treating surfaces with chemicals, it is necessary to use personal protective equipment: respirators, gloves, goggles. Work must be carried out in a well-ventilated area.
After removing irregularities, to prepare the floor for laying tiles, it is necessary to repair the joints between the floor slabs and between the walls and the floor. The joints are sealed with concrete grade M-150. Before laying concrete, the surface must be moistened with water.
If the tiled surface is going to be arranged in the bathroom, then it is necessary to perform waterproofing after concrete embedding.
Then the concrete coating must be treated with a metal brush.
Before installing the tile, the cement screed is primed.
Materials and tools:
How is wood flooring prepared for tiling?
The tile can also be laid on a base made of wood. Hardwood floors require special preparation.
First of all, the wooden coating is treated with an antiseptic solution. The floor is then dried. After that, 2 layers of roofing material are laid on a wooden coating. This is necessary for moisture insulation. Then, above the layer of roofing material, you need to install a mesh of reinforcement, which has holes with a diameter of 10 cm. After that, a cement-sand screed is made, to which microfiber is added.
You can not lay tiles on linoleum and carpet. These covers are removed. Then the remaining glue is removed. If the floor covered with linoleum has a flat surface, you can lay cement-fiber boards on it, and then lay the tiles.
If the tiles are going to be mounted on a warm floor system, which is covered with a concrete screed, then the system is turned on for 2 days. Then turn off the system and lay the tile.
You can turn on the underfloor heating system again 3 days after the grouting is done.
If the tiles are mounted on thermal mats, they are first turned off. Installation is carried out without an additional screed device, directly on the tile adhesive, which can be used for underfloor heating.
After a thorough and thorough preparation of the floor according to the above rules, proceed to the installation of tiles. Thanks to the preparatory work performed according to the instructions, the laying of tiles will be of high quality, and the tiled coating will be strong, reliable and durable.
Since during construction or repair it is almost impossible to achieve a flat, without slope and flaws (slots or tubercles) surface on which the flooring will be mounted, builders use a layer of cement-sand mixture. This layer is called floor screed.
How to prepare a surface for a screed? To do this, you need to perform a series of sequential work:
For a high-quality screed, it is necessary to prepare the base on which it will lie well. When repairing the floor, it is better to remove the old screed. From time and operation, cracks, chips, potholes appear on it. Expanded clay accelerates the destruction process, which was covered under it in Soviet-built houses - the backfill compacts over time, forming voids under it. cement screed which is almost impossible to repair.
The increase in the cost of work when replacing the floor will result in savings later, when it is not necessary to disassemble everything again during the service life of the new flooring due to deformation of the screed.
The old floor base is removed with a perforator. The concrete floor is cleared of debris and dust. After that, it is desirable to vacuum it and make a wet wipe. All damage to the overlap, chips and flaking are removed. Cracks, seams and surface damage are sealed with a thick cement mortar.
It should be remembered that the cement mortar will not lie on concrete without prior preparation of the base. It just goes away after a while.
Therefore, the places of damage to concrete and seams are primed. Small cracks are embroidered with a scalpel or perforator, otherwise the solution cannot be rubbed into them.
Repair of damage in the ceiling and seams, and then the primer of the entire surface is carried out using:
For reference: other types of factory primer are either more expensive, or their quality is lower, or, like Vetonit, they have a short shelf life.
The technology of laying the screed on expanded clay is discussed in detail in the materials: "" and "".
Dry concrete will draw water out of the cement-sand mixture and disrupt the chemical process of cement setting. In addition, the primer binds dust particles and creates a film that improves the mutual adhesion of concrete and cement mortar.
Cement milk is obtained by mixing cement with water in a ratio of 1:2. Both with cement milk and water, the restored places are wetted 2-3 times, but without the formation of puddles. It is advisable to accelerate the saturation of the pores with moisture using a paint brush. To do this, the primer is actively rubbed into the concrete with a brush. The repair mortar is applied to a damp surface (wet on wet) and thoroughly rubbed.
Priming with "milk" is much more effective than wetting with water. The cement contained in it penetrates with water into the pores of concrete and improves the process of joining the cement mortar with the repaired base.
Special primers penetrate into the ceiling in repaired areas and crystallize there, blocking the outflow of water from the solution. On the penetration surface, they form small scales that provide adhesion of the patch to the concrete.
Repair of floors in St. Petersburg and Moscow in pre-war houses has one feature - there is no concrete slabs overlap. The interfloor ceiling is made of powerful metal T-beams. Therefore, the preparation of the base for the screed in such houses begins with the filling between the expanded clay beams, on which a layer of cement mortar is applied.
Expanded clay is a light, porous material. Ecologicaly clean. It is used for heat and sound insulation, as well as a filler of spaces, to reduce the load on the load-bearing elements of the building.
Before backfilling with expanded clay, the base of the interfloor overlap is covered with a polyethylene film, overlapped, (thickness 100 microns or more) or other waterproofing material. The seams are sealed with tape. At the walls, the film is laid above the floor mark.
Lighthouses are being installed. Expanded clay is poured and the surface is leveled with a long rail, preventing it from exceeding the lighthouses. We fix the leveled layer of expanded clay in this position with the help of cement milk, which will prevent the displacement of expanded clay granules when laying the screed.
Screeds in individual houses or cottages are carried out on the ground or on the subfloor.
The soil is cleared of vegetation and leveled. Expanded clay is poured on it, at least 5 cm thick above the foundation, to provide thermal insulation and a layer of sand 10-15 cm. The resulting surface is wetted with water and rammed for dense shrinkage. This is the most cheap way screed preparation, which is not inferior in efficiency to more expensive options.
The wooden floor used for the base of the screed must meet a number of criteria:
Deficiencies are easily remedied. Preparing the floor for pouring the screed comes down to replacing rotten and sagging boards. Eliminate dirty spots detergents or with the help of grinding (planer). Creaking boards are additionally attached to the joists. Places of possible leakage of the solution (under the baseboards near the walls, cracks, fallen knots) are sealed with parquet putty based on wood dust or oil paint mixed with sawdust in a ratio of 1:4.
Important: water-soluble putty is not used, as it can be destroyed by the moisture of the solution.
Plinths are removed. A thin rail is put in their place. The gaps between the rail and the floor are sealed with putty. After the screed is installed, the rail is removed, and the remaining gap between the wall and the floor will serve to ventilate the space under the floor, which will prevent the boards from rotting and the lag. After laying the floor covering, it will be closed with a plinth.
The next step in preparing the base for laying is waterproofing and soundproofing. Waterproofing issues are covered in detail in the work: "".
Carrying out construction or repair work on the installation of the floor with their own hands, many identify waterproofing work with the installation of a damper tape. Yes, the tape partially performs the role of sound and waterproofing, but only at the junction of the wall and floor. It does not provide protection of the base of the floor from moisture from the basement or leakage in rooms with high humidity (bathrooms).
Important: base floor waterproofing is mandatory in individual houses without a basement. Capillary moisture and water evaporation from the soil under the building destroy both the foundation, the screed, and the floor itself. The problem is exacerbated if the moisture has an aggressive (acidic or alkaline) environment. Interacting with the components of concrete, it renders it unusable for several years.
Exist various ways waterproofing:
Soundproofing is necessary for residents of apartment buildings, starting from the second floor. Music, children's screams, loud TV, etc. become a problem for the upstairs neighbor for many years. It is solved by laying soundproofing material on the floor. At the same time, depending on the type of flooring, soundproofing material is placed under the screed on the slab (floating screed), or on the screed itself.
Various materials are used for floating screed:
Its device is not very complicated, but requires certain knowledge and skills. Does not apply to certain types of floors. In such cases, soundproofing materials are placed between the screed and the floor. Instructions for soundproofing the floor screed are given in the article: "".
Important: carrying out soundproofing work almost always solves another problem - floor insulation.
The floor surface before the screed always has defects:
In order to level these shortcomings, it is necessary to find such a conditional horizon, above which the floor base will not be visible in all rooms of the room. This is achieved by deriving the zero level (horizon line), and then, with its help, the floor screed line. These lines are beaten off with a building cord along the walls of rooms or drawn with a pencil along a rail or a rule.
Preparing the subfloor for laminate flooring includes the following steps:
It should be remembered that the quality of the preparatory work depends on the durability of the laminate.
